Real milk, no cows needed: Lab-made dairy products are actually a reality

BACK 2014, bioengineer Ryan Pandya had a demoralising encounter with a bagel. It wasn’t so much the bagel itself as its filling, a “bland and runny” substance created from soya which was likely to resemble cream cheese. Pandya was a recent convert to veganism and was struggling to give up dairy products. But when life dealt him bad cream cheese, he made ice cream.

Today, Pandya’s company Perfect Day reaches the vanguard of a food revolution. It creates and sells milk, but does not have any cows. Its farm is a bioreactor where it cultivates microorganisms genetically engineered to secrete milk proteins. The proteins don’t …

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